Physical & Chemical Exfoliants: The Disadvantages and Precautions for the Use of Healthy Skin

One of the essential steps towards obtaining beautiful and healthy skin is exfoliation. It gently sloughs off the dead skin that could otherwise block some pores, resulting in dull-looking skin, and brings the new layers of skin to light. But when it comes to exfoliation, there are two primary methods to choose from: Chemical exfoliation and physical exfoliation. Each type has its benefits, types, and particular precautions one has to bear in mind, especially when planning to combine the exfoliation methods—what are safe mixes and what additional effects one can expect by exfoliating the skin.

 

 

What is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation can be defined as the shedding of the outermost layer of the skin, which is made up of dead cells. The outer layer of skin that has been sloughed off usually contains dead cells that, if not cleaned out regularly, will form an excessive layer on the surface of the skin, resulting in blocked pores and skin that is rather dull and rough in texture. By doing this, you stimulate this process, thus making sure that skin always has a younger, healthier look.

Broadly speaking, there are two categories: Physical Exfoliation and Chemical Exfoliation to slough off dead skin. Let’s look further.

 

 

Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliation includes physically removing dead skin cells assisted by the use of scrubs, brushes, and rough, gritty tools to sand down the top surface of the skin. This approach is a more conventional and widely followed method of exfoliation.

Types of Physical Exfoliants:

⦁    Scrubs: These are usually creams or gels with coarse satisfying ingredients (sugar, salt, and seed powder) which assist in sloughing off the skin’s dead scaliness.
                ⦁  Sugar scrubs, walnut shell scrubs, coffee scrubs.
⦁    Exfoliating Brushes/Sponges: Devices such as facial cleansing brushes, exfoliating gloves, or konjac sponges using fibers, self-brush sponges, and soft bristles exfoliate the skin.
                ⦁ Silicone face scrubbers, Clarisonic brushes, and other related devices.
⦁    Microdermabrasion: A salon procedure where a doctor performs skin exfoliation using specialized equipment with tiny crystals or a diamond tip. It is an aggressive contouring procedure that works deeply to exfoliate and revamp skin’s quality.
                ⦁  There are professional devices and also some home products available.
⦁    Exfoliating Pads or Towels:
                ⦁  Pads or towels that are impregnated with certain ingredients such as topical acids or toners and pads fitted within the towel designed to exfoliate superficial dead tissue concurrently with chemical absorption.
                ⦁  Korean mitts for exfoliation of the body and face pads with very soft bumps.

Benefits of Physical Exfoliation:
⦁    Instant Effects: After employing a physical exfoliant, one can instantly notice the skin becoming softer.
⦁    Improves Blood Flow: Due to the scrubbing, blood circulation is encouraged and adds glow to the body.
⦁    Cleanses Surface Pores: Good at cleansing away surface contamination, including debris, dirt, and oil from the skin.

 

Who Are Physical Exfoliants Suitable For?
Best suited for people with normal to oily skin—it would be too rough for some people, especially those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Do not recommend physical exfoliation for those with inflamed active acne or rosacea, as the pressure and movement may aggravate these conditions.

Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation incorporates the use of acids or enzymes that break the adhesion that dead skin cells have with other cells, resulting in an even surface to the skin. Just like the name suggests, chemical exfoliation does not entail any form of scrubbing but involves the use of chemical agents that break the cellular connections of dead skin cells.

Skin Exfoliating Agents Classifications:
⦁    Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): A type of chemical exfoliant that improves the outer layers of the skin and dissolves in water for an easier application. AHAs are competent in removing dead skin cells, moisturizing, and reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
       ⦁  Some common types: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, and Mandelic acid.
       ⦁  Mostly suited for: Types of skin that lack moisture, such as dry, dull, or aged skin.
⦁    Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Oil-soluble acids that go deeper in the pores to get rid of oil and dead skin, therefore best suited for acne-prone individuals.
        ⦁  Common type: Salicylic acid.
        ⦁  Ideal for: Oily and acne-prone skin as well as blackheads and large pores.
⦁    Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs): PHAs are relatively large molecules. These give the impression that they are kinder to the skin compared to other exfoliants. Similarly, PHAs are less intimidating than AHAs.
        ⦁    Common types: Gluconolactone and Lactobionic acid.
        ⦁    Ideal for: Sensitive skin because they mostly exfoliate without going deep into the skin. PHAs are safe for sensitive skin types.
⦁    Enzymatic Exfoliants: Enzymes such as those from papaya work by dissolving proteins in keratinized layers.
        ⦁   Example: Papain (from papaya) and Bromelain (from pineapple).
        ⦁   Ideal for: Sensitive or dry skin types.

Benefits of Chemical Exfoliation:

⦁    Penetrates Deeper: Unlike some physical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants work deep among the skin layers, making them excellent for unclogging skin, e.g., from acne or pigmentation issues.
⦁    Even Skin Tone: Using AHAs will lighten dark patches, such as sunburns and other skin blemishes caused by acne scars, leading to an overall even complexion.
⦁    Minimizes Irritation: Chemical exfoliants generally result in less irritation than physical exfoliants, as they don’t involve friction or abrasive elements.

Who Are the People Who Should Adopt Chemical Exfoliants?
It is appropriate for many skin types, but especially for those with acne, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, or dry skin.
Women and men with sensitive skin should start with milder acids (such as PHAs) and lower concentrations of AHAs and BHAs to prevent skin irritation.

 

 

Is it Acceptable to Mix Physical Exfoliation and Chemical Exfoliation?

It is advisable to combine physical and chemical exfoliation for enhanced benefits; however, care should be taken so that the skin is not subjected to over-exfoliation, which may compromise the skin barrier. The trick is to use them from time to time and not all the time, to give your skin a break.

 

 

Safe Ways to Combine Physical and Chemical Exfoliation:

⦁    Alternating Days: A physical exfoliant may be used once a week while using a chemical exfoliant on different days. This way, you get the benefits of both without stressing the skin too much.
⦁    Gentle: If you want to combine the two approaches, go for a mild mechanical scrub, such as a konjac sponge, or any mild physical exfoliation together with chemical exfoliation using mild acids like PHAs, so that irritations are kept at bay.
⦁    Different Times of the Day: For example, you may apply a salicylic acid serum as a chemical exfoliant in the evening before bed and use a very gentle physical exfoliant in the morning cleansing routine. Doing this prevents over-exfoliation from occurring.

 

 

What Should Not Be Mixed?

⦁    Avoid Harsh Ingredients: A strong chemical exfoliant (e.g., high-strength AHAs or the use of retinoids) and a harsh physical scrub should never be applied on the same day. Applying both can lead to excessive irritation, drying out of the skin, and may cause microtears.
⦁    Do Not Layer Several Types of Chemical Exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs should be kept separate unless a product is specifically designed to use them together. Excessive use of these exfoliants can cause sensitivity, redness, and dysfunction in the skin barrier.
⦁    STOP Exfoliating with Active Acne: Avoid any aggressive scrubbing treatment in the case of acne or inflamed skin. Instead, use salicylic acid or other mild chemical exfoliants that are effective for breakouts but do not aggravate them.

 

 

Advantages of Consistent Exfoliation

Regardless of the method you prefer—manual, chemical, or both—exfoliation is beneficial to your skin in many ways, such as:

⦁    Improved Skin Surface: As one of the effects of exfoliation is sloughing off the top layer of dead skin, it helps make the skin soft and smoother, enhancing the skin texture.
⦁    Healthy-Looking Skin: When performed regularly, exfoliation can allow healthy and glowing skin to emerge by getting rid of the unattractive dead skin at the outermost part of the skin.
⦁    Aids in Acne Prevention: While exfoliating, the dirt, oil, and other debris that have found their way deep inside the pores are taken out, reducing the chances of developing pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads.
⦁    Enhances the Efficacy of Treatments: Exfoliating enables skin care products to enter the dermis more thoroughly, thus enhancing the effectiveness of serums, moisturizers, and treatments.
⦁    Lightens the Complexion: Light chemical peels using AHAs and BHAs may help reduce excess pigmentation and even out acne scars over time.
⦁    Stimulates Collagen Production: With consistent exfoliation regimens that include the use of AHAs, younger-looking skin can be achieved due to increased collagen production.